Durham es Delicioso: The Bull City’s Latin Food Takeover

Durham’s food scene is excellent, with seemingly every culinary culture represented. But for me, some of the best new restaurants in town are Latino. Bold and dynamic—roast pork, rice and beans, citrusy ceviche, fresh grilled fish and stews brimming with meat and root vegetables—I grew up with the signature flavors of Latin America. I was born in Puerto Rico but grew up in the South, and as a documentarian, food historian, and cookbook author I love the stories food tells. I also truly believe our food is among the best on earth, and Durham's offerings do not disappoint.

The Bull City’s Latin American cuisine is as delicious as it is varied, representing an eclectic range of countries and cultures: Puerto Rico, Peru, Mexico, Colombia, Dominican Republic, Brazil, Honduras, Argentina, El Salvador and Cuba. And this range reflects the diversity and steady growth of the local Hispanic community. Of the more than 600 restaurants in the area, one in ten is dedicated to Latin American cuisine, both representing the ever-expanding community, and the deliciousness and broad popularity of the region's fare.

Tacos + Mexican Food

Mexican food is arguably tops, representing the majority of businesses. You can find farmers markets brimming with tropical fruit and fresh tortillas and grocers with fresh chicharrones alongside taco trucks and fine dining restaurants with mezcal cocktails. But offerings from across the region are just as impressive, reflecting the diversity of flavors and ingredients from across the region. Mom and pop (or mami and papi) spots abound: businesses with a lot of heart that reflect the entrepreneurial spirit of the local Hispanic community.

Tacos are everywhere and excellent. Food trucks and outdoor patios, food halls, family-friendly sit-down restaurants and businesses tucked into grocery stores, this town’s tacos will make you think you’re in Mexico City. Taqueria La Vaquita‎, Nuvotaco, Super Taqueria, Don Becerra Taqueria, Lady Gold Tacos, the Durham Green Market, and Ex-Voto (though arguably best known for its crunch wrap) are among the best. Beyond the tacos, Michoacan, El Huarache and Mexico Lindo (formerly Guanajuato Mexican Restaurant) will satisfy your cravings for savory grilled meat with rice and beans, sopes, enchiladas, quesadillas and burritos. My personal favorite is La Superior, certainly for the tacos, tortas and barbacoa, but also for weekend specials like lamb consommé.

Durham Newcomers

Chef Oscar Diaz is keeping things very interesting. Little Bull, his first restaurant in town after Raleigh’s celebrated Cortez, was a fast favorite and demonstrates his range as a chef with elegant ceviches, birria dumplings, grilled pork chops with BBQ mole, and guava cheese pastelitos. But while his cuisine bridges Latin cuisines, the Chicago native also plays with flavors from across the globe, particularly Southeast Asian, Japanese and Middle Eastern. He builds on this concept at his new spot, Aaktun, which seamlessly blends coffee shop / tiki bar / fine dining; in the morning they sling the best breakfast sandwiches in town (chorizo and fluffy eggs on a soft bun), by night it’s tropical drinks spilling out of fabulous conch-shell glasses and pork belly adobo. His latest spot is TaTaco, a casual taqueria in the new GeerHouse development. They’re all part of the Mezcalito group, responsible for the self-named Mezcalito (a must-go if you love huge margaritas and ACP), with a brand new restaurant concept opening later this year.

Women-Owned Businesses

Rare in the still male-dominated restaurant scene, for me, some of the most exciting businesses in town are woman-run. Cocoa Cinnamon (aka Cocoa Canela) is a local treasure, and helmed by Areli Barrera Grodski—dubbed Micro Roaster of the Year in 2022—and Leon Grodski Barrera. Founded in 2011 as a bike cart, their award-winning coffee and three cafes are infused with her Tijuana, Mexico roots. And Fonda Lupita, led by immigrant women, is a stunner. Fun and family-friendly, it has a great salsa bar and spicy margaritas. Their specials include clever takes on classics—such as tender beef birria grilled cheese—as well as soul-nourishing traditional dishes like menudo. Taqueria Los Canarios is also woman-run. Naturally, my Puerto Rican heart swells for Boricua Soul, which is run by Serena and Toriano Fredericks, blending their Puerto Rican, Jamaican, Italian, and Southern roots at their fast-casual restaurant at American Tobacco Campus. And one of the newest women-led businesses is La Casita, serving Dominican food—whole roasted sweet plantains stuffed with shrimp, stewed oxtails, chicharron, whole fish, and fried cheese—will transport you from Durham to DR.

Travel the Region through Food

But perhaps the most exciting part of Durham’s Latin food scene is the range of cuisines and cultures represented. You can travel to Peru via Alpaca and Mí Peru, the former famous for its roast chicken, addictive sauces, sweet plantains, and rice and beans. But at Mi Peru you can eat some of the country's most traditional dishes—papas a la huancaina, ceviche in leche de tigre, arroz chaufa and lomo salteado. Pincho Loco represents El Salvador with its tropical ice cream flavors and mangonadas. Venezuelan-style stuffed arepas can be found at Guasaca, overflowing with saucy chicken or guacamole, sweet plantains or tender beef. Empanadas from across the region in all their various styles—large and small, baked or fried—are available at Sarah's Empanadas, Sabor Latin Street Grill, Makus Empanadas, and Luna.

Whether traditional or exciting fusion, these businesses reflect the beating heart of Durham’s Hispanic community. With over 60 restaurants in the area, this list is far from comprehensive. By the time you read this there may be another newcomer, as new businesses keep popping up. Check them all out, take your friends and family and invest in our local community.